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Monthly Archives: September 2009
Sticks and String
In knitting we say, “It’s only sticks and string” to indicate to newbies that it’s all manageable. Well sailing a dhow only uses sticks and strings, too, but it’s far more impressive. Out on a dhow, watching how it is … Continue reading
Posted in Mozambique, Travel
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The Cuamba-Nampula train
The train was meant to leave at 5am, and so I had to wake at O’Dark-thirty. I pulled on my traveling clothes (because what’s the point of dirtying new clothes every day when all you’re going to do is sit … Continue reading
Posted in Mozambique, Travel
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Mozambique, day 1, redux; part 3
After that was another, longer, hotter bike taxi ride up several hills, with a surprisingly wide lane considering the nearly complete dearth of motorized traffic. The lane was unsealed but in most places pretty smooth, and lined with trees, although … Continue reading
Posted in Mozambique, Travel
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Mozambique, day 1, redux; part 2
But first I had to clear Malawi immigration. The immigration guy called me in front of 4 or so other people, I think because I am white and looked confused and stupid white people are dangerous to leave wandering around … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi, Mozambique, Travel
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Mozambique, day 1, redux; part 1
I called Debbie from the train back to Liwonde. She very graciously said I could stay and sent a co-worker just leaving work to come and pick me at the station. I was very happy that the return trip from … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi, Mozambique, Travel
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13 August: Mozambique, Day 1
What was that I said about having enough time and just letting the trip unfold, and not stressing? Yeah, well, even though I know that to be best, after today I’m tempted to give up the whole trip. I got … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi, Mozambique, Travel
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13 July: Kate and Wanangwa’s Wedding Reception
Wanangwa and Kate, two Zomba friends of mine, got married. It almost didn’t happen because their ankhoswe* was late and the law books say you can only get married between certain hours, and the only reason the guy marrying them … Continue reading
27 June: Site Announcement
We weren’t there for Health ‘08’s site announcements. Health ’06 did a great event for ours, but due to scheduling problems we didn’t get to stay in Dedza long enough for the ’08 site announcements. This year, site announcement was … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi, Peace Corps
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A note on minibuses:
If there are people waiting with you on a minibus, and they seem too happy—dancing and singing enthusiastically to Lucky Dube blaring on the radio instead of looking like they’re tired of waiting but have nowhere else to go—and overly … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi
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Leaving Malawi, Part II
If I said there aren’t some things I’ll be happy to leave, I’d be lying. Mostly things like stone babies and the way many men feel they own my body because I’m a woman, and being called azungu azungu all … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi, Peace Corps, Philosophy
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Handwashing
I don’t think I’ve written about the routine of handwashing here in Malawi. I love ritual–I find it soothing–and this is one of my favourites. In Malawi, because nsima is eaten with the hands, hands must be washed before the … Continue reading
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Leaving Malawi, Part I
I haven´t written about my last weeks in Malawi partly because I still don´t have pics uploaded for some posts I´ve already written, but mostly because I´ve been in a serious state of denial: refusing to say good-bye to people … Continue reading
Posted in Malawi, Peace Corps, Philosophy
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How Peace Corps is like a coat
I think one of the problems some people have when returning from Peace Corps is a response to the loss of what Peace Corps means for one’s identity. For one thing, Peace Corps goes to great lengths to enculturate us–my … Continue reading
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